A splash of wine hits the dust beneath the table, offered first to Pachamama - aka Mother Earth, and suddenly northern Argentina feels more family member than nameless destination. Follow Phoebe's Wander Woman correspondent Daniel Neilson as he journeys to Jujuy and Salta following ancient Andean trade routes, reading a 4,000-year timeline etched into rock, and asking one deceptively simple question: how did life and culture move across mountains that seem designed to keep people apart? The a...