Hawaii isn’t one thing. It can be a surf town, a volcanic summit that feels like the moon, a rainforest with waterfalls, and a quiet stretch of beach that makes you forget what day it is. On my first trip to Hawaii, I head to Maui and use one guiding question to make sense of it all: why would someone choose Hawaii over any other “paradise” on the map? What I learn comes as much from conversations as it does from the scenery. I stayed in a hostel, even though that’s not the most common...